Today’s post is about a perfume that I don’t wear often but that continues to fascinate me: its complexity, the full and lush notes, the almost classic approach while being appealing to most women no matter their age… This and much more is Mito Voile d’Extrait by Vero Profumo.
Although I went through a phase where I thought that I needed to accustom to the chic elegance of floral perfumes, I have accepted that flowers never really resonate with my personality and body chemistry. I rarely sample new floral releases and my only exceptions come from brands or perfumers that I know will usually come up with high-quality fragrances. One of these brands is Vero Profumo.
Vero Kern, the head and nose behind Vero Profumo, is known for her unique and uncompromising style: her perfumes are not following a specific trend but are often an unconventional mix of notes which result in contemporary and full-bodied scents that are bursting with aromas and twist and turns. I believe that many of her scents are for “advanced” perfume lovers as they are far away from the scents that can be found in shopping malls and I admit that I find many of her perfumes difficult to wear. But no matter what, I have always liked sampling her perfumes, if only to be reminded of great perfume-art. To say it with her own words (quote from the Vero Profumo Website):
I create high-quality fragrances both artistic and aesthetically wise, which have to satisfy my high standards – as well as those of my clients.
I go my own way hundred percent and do not follow any trends. I’m looking for originality, opulence and eroticism in scents. They have to surprise and to touch me. I’m not interested in ‘clean’ scents; I need characterful scents both in my creations but also as wearer.
I received a sample of Mito Voile d’Extrait (herewith Mito VdE) back in early 2014, shortly after it was released. I remember reading the notes and thinking that I will have a difficult time with it:
Citruses, magnolia, champaca, jasmine, galbanum, hyacinth, cypress and moss (other note lists also mention peach, tuberose, labdanum and musk)
Galbanum, a citrus opening, flowers and moss, all interwoven into a chypre structure sounded way beyond my usual scent preferences. And so it was: the opening was green-citrus and galbanum-bitter, it was so loud that I held my arm away from me. People had described the beginning as “refreshing” and “zesty”, I thought it was Chanel No 19 on steroids with half a bottle of citrus concentrate. Just when I considered washing it off, the scent changed. I now smelled a weird combo of flowers and dark chocolate that seemed to come from deep down, finding its way to the surface and gently pushing aside the sharp green noise of the head notes. It felt as if something unintenionally strong prepared the next scent development, making space for the stars of the show – the flowers.
When I say flowers, I actually mean something that can be best described as a flower hothouse aroma. Believe me, Mito VdE is still very strong at this stage (about 15 minutes in its development), the flowers seem to be big and like as if they are infusing each other with their scent. It is hot and sticky, there is definitely tuberose in there, stretching its head towards the sun together with a monstrous magnolia.
This initial scent development sounds disturbing and there is no way around it, it is. In fact, I never enjoy the beginning and am always glad when I notice the dark creamy note (what is it? Labdanum?) and when the green flower hothouse essence has turned into a more muted version. This happens about 30 minutes after applying Mito VdE when the flowers are not quite as concentrated anymore. Instead of being in a hothouse, the flowers are now in a garden, surrounded by fresh air. Imagine you visit that beautiful garden where there are strong, tall flowers and bushes everywhere – this is what Mito VdE smells like. There is a subtle undertone of earth and dark greenery but I would never call it primarily woody or dark. Quite the opposite, Mito VdE is now very friendly, feminine and incredible beautiful. This is also the stage that I receive most compliments on.
The perfume stays like this for the next 6-7 hours, only becoming less concentrated with each passing hour. At the end of the day, my clothes are soaked in the smell of flowers combined with a trace of musk.
I find that Mito VdE smells wonderful in summer when the warm air is filled with its green, slightly exotic aroma but it also makes a great winter scent. Then, it reminds me of better days, sending a ray of sunshine through the cold days.
Vero Kern describes Mito VdE (along with the sister-scents, the original Mito EdP and Mito Parfum) as “for charming princesses and gallant urban kings in modern fairy tales” and this is exactly how it feels. I have never been a princess type of girl but every now and then, I need some strong floral magic in this modern fairy tale that is my life and whenever this is the case, I’m glad to have Mito Voile d’Extrait on my shelf.
I bought my bottle of Mito VdE with a birthday discount at First in Fragrance, where 50ml cost 168 EUR.
Are you familiar with Vero Kern’s perfumes? Which one do you like the most? And which perfume has turned from foe to friend for you?